Almost every conversation we have starts here, and it's a good place to start — because the answer narrows everything downstream. Ramp and lift vehicles are built differently, cost differently, park differently, and fail differently.

The short version: ramps go with lowered-floor minivans, lifts go with full-size vans and Sprinters. That's not a rule so much as a consequence. A ramp only works if the floor is low enough that the slope stays manageable, and getting a floor that low means cutting the vehicle apart and rebuilding it — which is practical on a minivan and not on a Sprinter. A lift doesn't care about floor height; it just carries you up to it.

But that's the shape of the answer, not the reasoning. Here is the reasoning.

1. What does the chair weigh — with you in it?

This is the number people most often get wrong, because they quote the chair's weight without the occupant. A lift is rated for the combined load. A heavy power chair plus an adult can approach or exceed the capacity of a lighter-duty lift, and capacity is not a place to round down.

Get the chair's actual weight from its documentation — not an estimate, and not the "transport weight" with the batteries out. Add your own. That combined figure is what a lift has to be specified against, and it's the first thing we ask for.

Ramps have load ratings too, and they matter for the same reason. But ramps tend to run out of slope before they run out of strength, which brings us to the second factor.

2. How high is the floor?

Ramp slope is the whole game. A ramp that's too steep is not merely unpleasant — it's genuinely dangerous to ascend in a manual chair, and it can be unmanageable for a caregiver pushing someone up it in the rain on a slight side-slope.

Public building ramps are built to a gentle standard because they have unlimited room to run. A vehicle ramp doesn't; its length is capped by what folds out of a door. So the only way to keep the slope reasonable is to bring the floor down to meet it, and that's what a lowered-floor conversion does.

If the vehicle's floor can't come down — a Sprinter, a Transit, a full-size van — the slope math doesn't work, and a lift is the honest answer.

If someone offers you a ramp on an un-lowered full-size van, ask them to deploy it and push a loaded chair up it in front of you. That settles it quickly.

3. Who operates it, and can they do it alone?

A ramp is mostly passive. Once it's down, ascending it is the user's or the caregiver's work — which means the effort scales with the slope and with the person's strength on that particular day.

A lift does the lifting. You position, you press, it carries. For a solo user with limited upper-body strength, or for an aging spouse who is doing the pushing, that difference is not a convenience — it's the difference between independent and not.

The flip side: a lift is a powered mechanism with more to go wrong. Which is why we ask about the manual backup on every lift we fit, and why you should too. Every good lift has a way to bring the platform down when the vehicle's electrical system won't. Know what yours is and practice it once, in the driveway, before you need it in a parking garage at night.

4. Where do you park?

This one surprises people, and it's the factor most likely to overrule the other three.

A side-entry ramp needs roughly eight feet of clear space beside the vehicle to deploy and for a chair to turn onto. In a striped accessible parking space with its hatched access aisle, you have that. In your own garage, on a residential street, or in the packed lot at a trailhead, you very often do not — and a ramp you can't deploy is a vehicle you can't get out of.

Rear entry sidesteps the problem entirely: you deploy into the space behind the vehicle, which in a standard parking space is the aisle. The trade is that the wheelchair position ends up toward the back of the vehicle, which some families dislike and some don't mind at all.

We wrote about this trade-off on its own, because it decides more purchases than any spec sheet: side entry or rear entry, the eight feet that decides it.

A shortcut worth knowing

If you can transfer out of the chair — even with effort, even not every day — a powered transfer seat may solve the problem for a fraction of either option, and it fits a far wider range of vehicles. Plenty of people arrive set on a full conversion and leave with a turning seat and a chair hoist. Ask about it before you rule it out.

Putting it together

In practice the four factors rarely disagree. A light manual chair, a user who transfers or self-propels well, a household with driveway space and a taste for something minivan-sized: ramp, side entry. A heavy power chair, a solo driver, a family that needs more than four seats, a garage with no side clearance: lift, in a full-size van or Sprinter.

The cases that need real thought are the ones in between — and those are worth ten minutes on the phone rather than an hour on a comparison site.

The part we'd insist on

Whatever the reasoning says, go and use one. Roll onto a deployed ramp at the slope it actually sits at. Ride a lift up and down. Do it with your own chair, not a demo chair, because three inches of extra width or two inches of seat-back height changes everything.

We keep a mobility Sprinter in stock year-round largely for this reason. People learn more in ten minutes on the lift than in a month of reading — including, sometimes, that the thing they came in certain about isn't what they want.